*********** Lycaste **********
This genus produces large, showy triangular flowers that are
waxy and long-lasting. The plants are distinctive for their
roundish bulbs and broad, plicate(pleated) leaves. Two
cultural groups are generally recognized -- the evergreen
skinneri type, that flowers from leafy pseudobulbs, and the
deciduous aromatica type, that flowers from leafless
pseudobulbs. Culture for the hybrid genus Angulocaste(Lycaste
x Anguloa) follows the curture for the Lycaste parent.
LIGHT requirements vary. Deciduous species prefer light
conditions as for cattleyas 2,000 to 4 000 foot-candles or 50%
to 70% shade. More light is usually provided as new growths
form pseudobulbs. Evergreen species prefer less light, 1,500
to 2,000 foot-candles or 60% to 80% shade.
TEMPERATURE for the evergreen species should be fairly
constant and never hot. Nights of 52 to 58 degrees F and days
of 65 to 78 degrees F are desirable. The deciduous species of
Lycaste can tolerate a wider range, up to 95 degrees F during
the day and down to 50 degrees F at night when dormant in the
winter.
WATER should be applied in larger amounts during, active
growth (usually summer) than when the plants are not producing
new leaves and pseudobulbs. The potting medium should just
begin to dry out before watering. Deciduous species should be
kept almost completely dry when leafless; evergreen species
should be kept only slightly drier than normal after
pseudobulbs form. Water should be kept off the leaves, and
especially out of new growths, to prevent rot or leaf
spotting.
HUMIDITY should be maintained at 40% to 70%. Deciduous species
need less humidity when dormant. Brisk air circulation will
help prevent damage to leaves by leafspot fungi.
FERTILIZER should be applied regularly and heavily when plants
are actively growing. A high nitrogen formulation (30-10-10)
is recommended during active growth (usually summer); some
growers top-dress the potting medium with blood meal as new
pseudobulbs form. In fall, or as growths mature and
pseudobulbs are produced, fertilizer is reduced and/or
switched to a high phosphorus (10-30-20) formulation to
stimulate flower production.
POTTING is best when new growth starts, usually in spring. A
fine-grade potting medium is often used; fir bark and perlite
(3:1) is a common, well-draining mix. When repotting, split
plants into no less than two bulbs per pot and choose a pot to
allow for two years of growth. The bottom one quarter to one
third of the pot should be filled with drainage material,
either broken crock, rocks, or Styrofoam "peanuts". The plant
should be positioned in the pot so that the newest growths are
farthest awayfrom the edge of the pot, allowing the maximum
number of new growths without crowding the pot. Spread the
roots over a cone of potting medium and fill in around the
roots with potting medium to the junction of the roots and the
pseudobulbs. Firm the medium well around the roots by applying
pressure. Keep humidity high and the potting medium on the dry
side until new roots form. A vitamin B1 compound may help
establish newly potted plants.
Prepared by: Education Committee, American Orchid Society,
6000 S. Olive Ave., West Palm Beach, FL 33405 (407) 585-8666.