A Basic Guide To Home
Orchid Culture - Venger's Orchids

Venger's Orchids is owned and operated by Rod and Susan Venger.
Venger's was founded in 1992 in response to two issues. First, after
many years of exposure to Orchids it simply seemed 'right'. Secondly,
and most important, we felt that the industry was heading in the wrong
direction regarding the pricing of Orchids and felt that in some small
measure we could make a more positive contribution to the hobby.
Venger's philosophy, simply stated, is that all Orchids are Mercedes-
Benz's and should not be priced by name, color or awards won. Venger's
pricing policy is based upon our actual cost, rather than trying to
maximize our profits. It is our belief that you should be able to buy
the Orchids you want, and not just the ones you can afford. With very
few exceptions, all of our blooming Orchids are priced the same. If that
means that we are at times unable to offer the 'latest and greatest' as
soon as it hits the market, then so be it. In a few years, the 'latest
and greatest' of today will be old-hat, industry wise, the prices will
be more reasonable, and yet the beauty will be unchanged. It is our goal
to actually lower our prices over time, and only time will tell whether
or not we can accomplish that goal.
As of this writing (April,1994) Venger's is beginning a modest expansion
that  will allow us to offer you a greater variety to choose from, from
seedlings all the way up to blooming Orchids. We sincerely hope that you
will take advantage of our expansion. If we can be of any help to you,
please let us know.
Sincerely Yours,
    Venger's Orchids

Section I - Basic Orchid Culture
 
Orchid Culture is best described as those conditions that will allow
your plant
to grow and bloom. These conditions are made up of ranges of
temperatures, humidity, of light, and nutrition. This first section
discusses Orchid requirements of a general nature only and is mainly
discussed from a Colorado viewpoint. A little common sense will allow
changes to be made for other areas of the country.
 
Light: Lighting requirements for Orchids will vary according to the
genera that the plant belongs to, and in some cases, according to the
specific species or hybrid within a genera. Altitude also is a factor.
Here in Colorado Springs, where our elevation is above 6000', direct sun
will quickly damage or kill an Orchid, whereas at sea level, many
Orchids not only tolerate, but thrive in it. Giving your Orchids the
correct lighting is one step to insuring that it will not only enjoy a
long life, but will bloom for you as intended.
Overall, give your Orchid as much light as it will tolerate without
burning the leaves. Though there are exceptions, the amount of light and
how your plant is tolerating it is fairly easily judged by the color of
the foliage. Dark green leaves on a Cattleya, for instance, is evidence
that the plant is not receiving enough light. Bright Yellow signifies
that the plant has reached it's level of tolerance, and the amount of
light the plant is getting should be reduced. Light to medium-green
would be ideal. Bear in mind here that reddened foliage is damaged
beyond repair and will die. South facing windows, for windowsill
culture, is probably best, though some screening, or sheer curtains, may
be necessary. West, East, and North facing windows are acceptable, in
that order of decreasing preference, though some Orchids will prefer one
over the others. We generally prefer to give our Orchids 14 hours of
light per day, regardless of season, which requires some amount of
artificial lighting, in the form of fluorescent 'Gro-Lights', especially
during the winter months.
 
Humidity and Air Movement: Unlike warm-blooded animals, Orchids, like
all plants, have no way to regulate their internal temperature. In an
Orchid's environment, humidity in combination with moving air is one way
that nature accomplishes this. If you take rubbing alcohol and apply it
to your skin, it feels cool because it evaporates rapidly. In the same
way, humidity in the air cools an Orchid, and prevents it from becoming
dehydrated by transpiring it's own moisture into dry air. Generally,
humidity around your Orchids should be in the 40-70% range. Air movement
around the plants will also help prevent fungi from the moist air from
gaining a foot-hold on your plant. Overall, as the temperature around
your plant rises, so should the humidity. If you aren't growing in a
greenhouse, plastic saucers filled with wet gravel will provide humidity
to your Orchids. Be certain that no water is coming into the bottom of
the pot, as this will cause root-rot, and a swift demise of your
expensive plants! Supplemental spraying with water in a spray bottle
will also help to cool your plants on hot days. A small fan will
facilitate air movement nicely.
 
Temperature: Orchid culture, from a temperature viewpoint, is generally
divided into 3 sections: Cool growing, Intermediate, and Warm. These
temperature ranges are at times expressed in terms of minimum night-time
temps. Cool growing Orchids easily tolerate temps down into the 50's,
and at times, 40's. Intermediate growing Orchids generally enjoy temps
over a 24 hour period of 65-85 deg f. , while warm growers prefer
nighttime temps above 70. I emphasized intermediate Orchids as they
generally are most popular in this section of the country, due to hot,
dry summers and cold winters. While intermediates will tolerate both
lower and higher temps, it must be noted that as the temperature gets
below 60 deg, or above 85, plant growth slows. Temps above 90 will
actually stop growth in many cases, and while this may not actually harm
the plant, neither does it do it any good. Conversely, dropping the
night-time temperature of some Orchids will help to induce blooming, as
will be discussed later. Temperature variation from night-time to day-
time should be at least 10 deg f. If you've referred back to the section
on Humidity and concluded that Orchids like to be somewhat warm and wet,
you're correct, though there are at times wide variations as to
preferences.
Nutrition: If there is one area where an Orchid will invariably suffer
at the hands of a begginer, this is it. Imagine if you will, how well
you might fare if you were kept on a diet of only water, and with
inconsistent feedings at that. Probably not very well, nor for very
long. If there is one thing that an Orchid appreciates, it's
consistency. That doesn't mean you have to give up your vacations, only
that Orchids require a certain level of care to remain at their peak. A
calendar is very useful for roughly outlining what you will be doing and
when, especially when your collection grows. Changes can be made
according to changes in the weather, ie, if the temperature rises for a
few days, watering may be necessary a day or so earlier than you had
scheduled. Generally, the potting mix should not completely dry out.
Conversely, it should not stay wet either. I generally recommend that
you not water more often than every 4 days, but at least every 7 days.
Every 5 - 6 days
is generally appropriate, though there are exceptions. Feeding your
Orchid is every bit as important as watering, and for best results,
require two or more kinds of fertilizers. As a minimum, I suggest 20-20-
20 for growth, and 10-30-20 to induce blooming. For those of you not
familiar with fertilizers, the 1st number in the above formulas
represents the percentage of available Nitrogen (for growth), the 2nd,
Phosphorus (for blooming) and 3rd, Potash, (for root health). See
graphic é.
Increasing one while decreasing others fine tunes your feedings to
emphasize what you want your Orchid to do, at least to some extent.
Trying to induce blooming constantly in an Orchid that blooms only once
per year will yield disappointing results. As a general rule, I use 10-
30-20 to steer an Orchid in the correct direction. It is very difficult
to force an Orchid into bloom, and in any caseis not recommended.

Fertilizers are generally used at a rate of 1/2 the recommended strength 

stated on the label. In addition, most readily
available fertilizers do not contain micronutrients (mineral elements)
that are necessary to an Orchid's health. While an Orchid will, for a
time do fairly well without them, eventually the deficiency will
manifest itself in fewer, smaller or no blooms, and a decrease in the
overall health of the plant. (Venger's Orchids has both
20-20-20 and 7-7-7 with micronutrients for sale)
As for feeding schedules, Feed with 20-20-20 for 3 straight waterings,
followed by 10-30-20 the next time, if appropriate, and lastly, flush
with straight water for the final watering of the cycle. Flushing in
this manner leaches out some of the leftover chemicals from the previous
4 feedings. Any additional fertilizers can be worked into the schedule
easily.  Again, your Orchid will appreciate consistency. Overwatering is
liable to result in root rot, which causes a paradoxical problem of
dehydration. In this situation, the problem might start out with you
noticing your phalaenopsis leaves beginning to shrivel a bit, feel
rubbery and limp. As this is a symptom of dehydration, you immediately
water your phal and adjust your schedule to compensate. The mistake made
here was that the potting medium and roots were not checked initially to
see if dehydration from underwatering was truly the problem.
Overwatering causes the Vellumen, or outer covering of the roots to
disintegrate and literally rot away. Visually this is confirmed by
unpotting the plant and observing that the roots are black and falling
apart at a touch. You would also see the inner portion of the root,
which is thin and wire-like. The destruction of the Vellumen makes the
Orchid incapable of water or nutrient intake and the plant initially
dehydrates. Prompt diagnosis and treatment in the form of repotting is
necessary to save the plant! Dehydration not caused by root rot is
another problem and one that in many cases can be solved by altering
your watering schedule or becoming a bit more consistent. Symptoms vary
according to different genera. Phalaenopsis in dehydration will appear
as described above. Brassias and Oncidiums may exhibit premature
wrinkling of the pseudobulbs as the plant attempts to keep itself
hydrated. The most common symptom will be crinkling of new leaves,
taking on an accordion look. Neither symptom can be 'cured' though the
problem can be solved with adjustments to the watering schedule or
temperature. In Cattleyas, dehydration will manifest itself in shriveled
pseudobulbs and leaves that take on a dessicated or dry look. Again once
these symptoms have appeared, those pseudobulbs and leaves will keep
that appearance for life. If you are a beginner, or simply don't have
the knowledge or facilities to properly diagnose and solve these
problems, please call us immediately. We will diagnose the problem and
give the proper advice. If your plant is suffering from root rot, we can
repot into new media. There may be a small charge for some plants.
Over-fertilizing is another nutritional problem under the heading of
"Too Much Of A Good Thing". Unless you really over-do it, over
fertilizing usually won't jeopardize your Orchid. It will however make
it unsightly. The first and foremost symptom is burning of the leaf
tips, as this is generally the thinnest part of the plant. Keep your
fertilizer's nitrogen level at or below 20% and adjust the amount of
fertilizer you use. If you are following the "1/2 the recommended
strength stated on the label" as mentioned above, you should not have
any problems. Don't try and force your Orchid to grow.
                        
Section II - Potting, Repotting and Mounting
 
Potting and Repotting: While on the surface this sounds simple enough,
how an Orchid 'performs' really does rely on how it's potted, and what
it's potted in. Looking at how Orchids grow in the wild sheds some light
on how they will grow in the home or greenhouse. Orchids tend to fall
into 3 major groups. Lithophytes, or rock dwellers, Epiphytes or tree
dwellers (sometimes called "Air Plants, though this can also apply to
Tillandsias and Bromiliads) and the "Semi-Terrestrials" which grow on
the ground, but grow their roots into leaf litter or other ground
debris, rather than into the earth itself. This can create some problems
for the unknowing beginner or even the experienced hobbyist working with
an unfamiliar plant.
Editorial time: Somewhere along the line you've undoubtedly heard that
Orchids are "Hard to grow". There are two main reasons. One is that the
buyer simply doesn't know what to do with this ordinary looking plant
with the outrageous looking flowers, and the seller too often is not
knowledgeable enough in a practical sense to educate the buyer properly.
Nurseries and flower shops tend to fall into this category, though there
are exceptions. The other reason is Orchid growers that sell their
plants to resellers in potting mixes that are inappropriate. One example
of this is a California grower that specializes in Phalaenopsis and
sells his plants to nurseries potted in peat moss. For him, peat moss is
probably ideal. His greenhouses are completely computerized to keep
track of temperature, humidity and watering schedules, and alters the
conditions and schedules as needed, all automatically. For the beginner,
this is nothing more than a disaster that hasn't happened yet. Which
brings us back to reality.
For the most part, potting mixes are of various coarseness, from fine to
very coarse, and can have a variety of ingredients, some of which make
sense, and some of which don't. Some common ingredients are Redwood
bark, Firbark, Sphagnum, New Zealand Sphagnum, Osmunda Fiber, Tree Fern,
Charcoal, Perlite, Gravel, etc. In theory, you could grow an orchid in
marbles. The potting mix should provide at least two things. Something
to hold moisture for a certain amount of time, such as redwood bark, and
something to provide drainage to avoid root rot, such as perlite. Many
growers, including ourselves, add white styrofoam peanuts to the bottom
of the pot. It adds drainage, doesn't decompose, and stays out of the
landfill. Charcoal can be added to the mix to regulate acidity from the
decomposition of any organic materials used. We favor a mix of medium
Redwood bark, Charcoal and Perlite, mixed 2-1-1 for most Orchids past
the 2 1/2" (pot size) stage. For seedlings we use fine Redwood bark and
fine perlite, as the seedlings are less prone to root-rot and this mix
will retain more water. Some genera, such as Masdevallia, Paphiopedilum
and Odontoglossum, to name a few, stay in the fine mix even as adults.
As for pots, we prefer plastic Azalea pots except for certain Orchids
where we must tightly regulate moisture, or in Orchids where the pot
size is 10" or larger. In these cases we use standard unpainted red clay
pots, as these will draw excess moisture out.

Repotting is generally done every two years and serves two purposes. One
is to replace partially decomposed bark which holds more water than is
wanted and has less drainage capabilities, and the other is to give the
Orchid growing room. We generally advise repotting into the smallest
size possible, allowing for two years of growth.
Two notable exceptions are Dendrobiums and Oncidiums, which like to be
pot bound. I do not advise repotting simply to control root growth for
two reasons. One is that it's simply more 'natural' looking to have
roots flowing out of the pot or basket, and secondly, if your conditions
will support them, the extra roots are able to tap the humidity,
possibly avoiding dehydration problems if you forget to water
occasionally. Repotting should be done when new growth is just beginning.
Be aware that any new roots, when over 1" long, are subject to breaking
and care must be taken not to damage them. The process of repotting is
fairly straightforward, though a bit unnerving to the beginner.  First
make sure you have your pot (either new or sterilized with bleach and
rinsed) and mix ready. Sift the new mix prior to repotting to remove
dust particles that might clog the roots. You'll also need a pair of
scissors, preferably sterilized with a propane torch. If a torch is not
available, soak the blades in alcohol or Betadine (Povidone-Iodine) for
10 minutes. (This sterilization should be repeated before using the
scissors on any other Orchid to prevent the spread of any harmful
organisms from one Orchid to another) With everything ready, unpot your
Orchid. If clay, the pot may have to be broken with a hammer, hitting
just hard enough to crack the pot. If plastic, hold the orchid firmly
just above the level of the mix and upend it. A gentle tug may pull the
Orchid free. If not, try tapping the edge of the pot on a hard surface
or gently squeezing the pot to free the roots. That finished, begin
gently pulling the old mix away from the roots. Pay special attention to
the area directly under the plant and be sure to remove as much material
as possible. Examine the roots and cut away any that are black and
rotted or no longer have the Vellum attached. This is also a good time
to look for and remove any bugs, slugs or snails. When finished begin
repotting. If you have any white (not colored) styrofoam peanuts you can
put some in the bottom to a depth of approximately 1". Insert the plant
into the pot and gauge it's depth. The crown of the roots should be at
the level of the sub-rim of the pot, usually about 1 1/2" below the rim.
Add enough potting mix under the plant to bring the Orchid to the proper
level. Place the Orchid in the pot so the new growth is approximately in
the center in the pot. If the Orchid has new growth in two or more
directions, then center the plant. While holding the plant, begin adding
the new mix around the roots in 1" layers, firmly compacting each layer
with your thumb, and continuing until the base of the plant is just
covered. Compact one last time and you're finished. The Orchid should be
tight in the mix with little or no wobble. If it does wobble, repot it
again until it doesn't. In some plants, where a large part of the root
system has had to be cut away, you may have to stake the plant in
position with a bamboo stake and twist tie. If this is the case, after
you've placed the Orchid back in it's 'home', don't move it any more
than necessary for a month or so. If you've repotted a Cattleya, if at
all possible, water immediately, put in a shady area and then don't
water again for 2 weeks. Return the Orchid to it's normal conditions
after this time. Seedlings require repotting as well. However we
recommend that you use a fine bark mix. Some seedlings will do well in
New Zealand Sphagnum or a combination of the two. All in all, given a
bit of practice and the proper materials, repotting is quite easy.
However, if it's not your cup of tea or you don't have the time,
Venger's will repot your Orchids for a nominal fee. We can give you a
free lesson as well.

Mounting: While thinking about this section, it occurred to me that this
is probably my favorite subject. Out of nearly every shipment of Orchids
we get, especially seedlings, you can be sure that some of them get
mounted either on cork slabs, natural cork bark or some piece of
driftwood. This is, after all, almost as close to 'natural' as is
practical to create. I highly recommend it to anyone. Admittedly, it
does take a certain amount of dedication. Even here in our greenhouse,
where humidity levels are rarely below 60%, we water 'The Mounts' every
two days. In a home, count on watering every day, and misting perhaps
twice per day. Is it worth it? You bet! Blooming a mounted specimen
gives me 10 times the satisfaction of blooming a potted one. Not that
it's harder in any real sense. Just the sense of pride that comes from
accomplishment through self-discipline.
What types of Orchids can you mount? Almost any, though some do better
than others. Masdevallias do extremely well on a vertical piece of cork,
while Cattleyas don't fair so well. Mounting Catts on a horizontal piece
of driftwood seems to overcome their reluctance to thrive out of a pot.
Oncidiums and Phallies do well in either orientation, as do
Cadetias.(which we've bloomed mounted, potted, in nearly direct sun and
in medium shade. Talk about adaptable!) Of course, Angraecums and
Aerides prefer to be mounted.
Overall, the difference in caring for a mount is one of timing.
Everything must be done more often, with frequent checks for changes in
the plant, especially those from dehydration. The risk of getting root-
rot is minimal, and in fact, at times mounting a severely root-rotted
plant is the only way to save it. Fertilizing is the same as for potted
plants, except the schedule is accelerated. We fertilize every two days
when we water, x 4, then flush with clear water. Our own method of
watering is by drowning them. We mix our fertilizer and water and dunk
the entire plant for 30 seconds or so and gently blow any water out of
the crowns. Since we have 100+ mounts, this takes some time, but is much
better than trying to soak the Sphagnum with a spray bottle, both for us
and the Orchids.
While mounting an Orchid is easy enough, it really requires 3 hands, not
to mention an old shirt. We make do with two hands, unfortunately. The
materials needed for mounting are an Orchid, the mounting material
itself (we'll assume natural cork bark), Long fibered New Zealand
Sphagnum, an old pair of nylons, sterile scissors, 6 inches of wire, and
optionally, one pair each of sterile forceps and needlenosed pliers. It
couldn't hurt to soak the sphagnum and the Orchid in fertilized water
just before mounting. The size and shape of the cork should be
appropriate to allow for  growth of the Orchid, but esthetics also play
a large part in your selection. After deciding where the Orchid will go
on the bark, place the bark flat and lay a bed of sphagnum large enough
to hold the width and height of the root ball. Place the Orchid on the
sphagnum. You may want to turn it until it 'looks right'. Gently flatten
the roots down as much as possible. Insert sphagnum into any spaces
between the roots, and cover the rest of the root ball. Be liberal.
Don't worry if you have a few stray roots. Next, cut a few 1/4" wide
strips from the legs of the nylons, cut the loop, and tie enough
together using square knots to form at least two feet of stretched
material. Laying the strip under the mount and under the root, hold the
strip in place with one finger along the side of the cork. Begin
wrapping the nylon. You'll need to stretch it quite a bit to create
enough tension to keep the orchid in place when held upright. Wrap the
nylon enough times to ensure your Orchid will stay in place and tie
the ends with a square knot or two. Fashion the 6 inch piece wire of
into a hook and insert it into the top of the mounting material. Make
sure a second hook is formed to hold the hook in place.
There are other materials you can use other than nylon. Wire works, as
do long pieces of twist ties, fishing line and twine. However, these
materials have no stretch to them, and as the plant grows, could cut
into the plant or roots.
   Somewhere in between pots and mounts are baskets, usually made from
cedar. Vandas, Oncidiums and Cattleyas are especially fond of basket
culture. The main advantage of using baskets rather than pots is that
air circulation is increased around the roots. In addition, since
baskets are designed to be hung up, basket culture is a good way to
increase the size of your Orchid collection. Our basket Orchids are
placed in 100% Sphagnum, with white styro peanuts placed randomly around
the roots to increase drainage. Watering and fertilizing is the same as
for our potted specimens. The most notable observation to make here is
that overall, in our experience, basket culture is easier than mounted
culture, and produces healthier Orchids than potted culture. In a
greenhouse environment, hanging your Cattleyas and Vandaceous Orchids is
another way to create micro-environments by shading areas underneath for
those Orchids that can't tolerate the higher light levels above.
 
Rod Venger, Venger's Orchids
venger@vengers.com